Berwick-upon-Tweed
England’s most northerly town… and home. I realised not long after we’d moved here that Berwick would be more than a base for photographic outings. It has a huge amount within the town to interest the visiting (or resident) photographer. There’s so much, in fact, that I’ve split this post into four sections; the town, the coast, the bridges and the walls. Long post ahead…
The Town
LS Lowry was a regular visitor to the town from the 1930s until his death in 1976. Much of the town would still be familiar to him, with its distinctive tiles and maze of interesting side streets and many of the images he painted are immediately recognisable as you walk around town.
Berwick-upon-Tweed, February 2024
From various spots around the town it’s possible to see down the Northumberland coast as far as Bamburgh and Holy Island. The Guildhall dominates views of the town, while the various back streets and views from the walls show the well-preserved character of the town. A visit during the Heritage Open Days week will be rewarded with a number of otherwise inaccessible locations opening their doors.
The Coast
Berwick-upon-Tweed, February 2024
Taking a walk along the coastal path is well worth the effort. From Green’s Haven by the golf course, all the way down to the pier there are fantastic views down the Northumberland coast. On a clear day both Bamburgh Castle and Lindisfarne Castle are both visible on the horizon. Low tide exposes some of the distinctive rock formations along this section of the coast that sit between Green’s Haven and Berwick Beach. The Border Belle operates pretty much all year around and this can give a different view of the town. If you’re lucky you may even see dolphins.
There’s plenty of birdlife along the coast and it’s also worth knowing that Berwick hosts the UK’s second largest colony of mute swans. At the peak in the summer there can be upwards of 300 birds along the Tweed and out into the estuary.
While technically a breakwater and harbour light, the lighthouse and pier are visible all along the coastal path. As a subject in and off itself it works in all types of weather and conditions…
The Walls
Cumberland Bastion, December 2024
Berwick-upon-Tweed’s Elizabethan walls are among some of the best preserved town walls from the era within Europe. There were also the most expensive project undertaken during Elizabeth I’s reign. That the town changed hands 13 times between 1174 and 1482 underlines Berwick’s turbulent history as a border town. Asides from the history, a walk around the walls affords some great views of the town and coast.
The Bridges
Royal Border Bridge from Berwick Castle, February 2024
The old town of Berwick sits on the North side of the Tweed Estuary (Tweedmouth sits to the south) and for centuries has been an important crossing point for traffic between England and Scotland. There are three crossings in the town; Berwick Old Bridge (which has just celebrated its 400th anniversary), the Royal Tweed Bridge (a rather functional concrete road bridge) and the Royal Border Bridge. The latter is a magnificent Grade I listed railway viaduct built between 1847 and 1850 designed by Robert Stephenson. It still carries the main East Coast mainline and dominates the scenery around the area.
The river is also home to a plethora of wildlife, including swans, a variety of wading birds, herons and otters.
